Startup Ticks: Crafting Time, Selling Prestige
Breaking into luxury watchmaking isn’t just about telling time—it’s about telling a story, mastering scarcity, and proving that your tick is worth the tock.
The luxury watch industry is an impenetrable fortress, ruled by brands with centuries of heritage, an unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, and a carefully curated aura of exclusivity. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet have secured their positions not through marketing alone but through tangible quality and innovation. For a new watch startup to enter this realm, it must do more than create a beautiful product—it must deliver an experience that justifies its place among the elite. True luxury is built on substance, not hype, and success depends on a delicate balance of innovation, artistry, scarcity, and emotional connection with collectors.
The first and most important challenge a new brand must overcome is differentiation. It must clearly answer a fundamental question: Why should a collector choose this watch over an industry giant like Rolex, Omega, or Grand Seiko? The answer lies in crafting a unique value proposition. Some startups succeed by embracing innovation, offering something no one else has, whether a revolutionary movement, an unprecedented material, or a complication executed in a completely novel way. Others focus on exclusivity, producing limited runs that create a sense of desirability through scarcity.
A distinct design language is another powerful differentiator—successful independents do not mimic existing luxury aesthetics; they establish their own. Craftsmanship, too, plays a decisive role. The use of hand-finishing, artisanal techniques, and high-grade materials signals authenticity in a world where discerning buyers appreciate the smallest details. For some brands, complication and functionality set them apart. A new interpretation of a perpetual calendar, a minimalist tourbillon, or an ultra-slim, hand-finished movement can define a niche in an otherwise crowded market.
Yet exclusivity and aesthetics alone are not enough. A watch must prove itself through its craftsmanship, the very foundation of its luxury status. Buyers in this segment demand more than just high prices—they expect the highest standards in movement design, finishing, and materials. If a startup relies on third-party calibers, it must refine and modify them in a meaningful way, as seen in Habring²’s meticulous enhancements of ETA movements. An in-house movement, while ideal, requires significant investment and technical expertise.
Finishing is where true artisanship reveals itself. Techniques such as anglage, perlage, Côtes de Genève, and black polishing distinguish a luxury piece from a mere expensive object. Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity remains a benchmark, revered for its impeccable hand-finishing, a reminder that collectors will always appreciate the human touch. Materials, too, must reflect this commitment to excellence. Platinum, titanium, meteorite dials, ceramic bezels, and exotic leathers enhance both aesthetics and durability, while off-the-shelf components or cheap coatings betray the illusion of luxury. A startup offering a hand-finished micro-rotor movement in a platinum case with a minimalist dial can position itself in the Laurent Ferrier tier of independent watchmakers.
Scarcity fuels desire, making limited production a key element of luxury positioning. Established brands master the art of controlling supply, ensuring their products remain exclusive and unattainable to the masses. A startup must adopt a similar approach, releasing watches in small batches—typically between 50 and 500 pieces per year for each model. Numbered editions and the inclusion of handcrafted elements reinforce the idea of exclusivity. Personalized touches, such as bespoke dials, custom engravings, and unique case materials, further elevate desirability. De Bethune, for instance, produces fewer than 400 watches annually, a practice that ensures each timepiece retains its rarity and allure.
Beyond the tangible aspects of the product itself, a compelling brand story plays a vital role in engaging collectors. Luxury is not just about what a watch is—it is about what it represents. A startup must build an emotional connection with its audience by telling a story that resonates. Some brands achieve this through the presence of a visionary founder or master watchmaker, much like F.P. Journe’s philosophy of “Invenit et Fecit,” meaning “Invented and Made.” Others create an identity by drawing from cultural heritage, even if they are newly founded. Ming, for example, has positioned itself within Malaysia’s independent horology scene despite being established in 2017. Documenting handcrafted techniques and the artisans behind the watches further enhances credibility. Some brands distinguish themselves through purpose-driven design, solving real problems or reinterpreting complications in a way that blends modernity with tradition. A startup that fuses Swiss mechanics with Japanese dial artistry—such as Urushi Lacquer—would captivate collectors seeking both innovation and cultural richness.
Pricing must be carefully strategized. A new brand cannot enter the market demanding ultra-luxury prices without first proving its value. Instead, it should begin with competitive pricing in the high-end segment, typically between $3,000 and $8,000, establishing its reputation before moving into higher tiers. Growth in pricing should reflect tangible advancements, whether through better materials, more intricate complications, or exclusive collaborations. Ming Watches exemplifies this approach, starting with accessible luxury pieces before gradually introducing higher-priced limited editions that justified their cost through improved craftsmanship and exclusivity.
Distribution channels must be carefully controlled, as luxury is as much about perception as it is about quality. Direct-to-consumer (DTC) sales through a brand’s own website provide the most control over pricing, margins, and brand image. However, strategic partnerships with select high-end boutiques, such as Chronopassion in Paris or A Collected Man in London, can lend credibility and visibility among serious collectors. What must be avoided at all costs is mass e-commerce. Selling through platforms like Amazon or eBay cheapens a brand’s image, making it indistinguishable from countless fashion-label watches that rely on discounting and broad availability. F.P. Journe’s decision to operate its own boutiques is a prime example of how careful distribution strengthens brand prestige.
Beyond product and pricing, luxury brands thrive on the strength of their communities. A dedicated collector base transforms a brand from a product into a movement. Startups must invest in building relationships with their audience, offering exclusive events, private collector clubs, and early access to limited releases. Engaging with key influencers in the horology space—rather than generic lifestyle influencers—helps create organic credibility. Direct interaction between customers and watchmakers fosters a sense of intimacy and belonging. Ressence and MB&F have both cultivated thriving collector communities, proving that a passionate following can elevate a brand beyond traditional marketing.
One of the most common mistakes made by new watch brands is an over-reliance on gimmicks and superficial marketing. Many failed startups have invested heavily in celebrity endorsements and flashy campaigns without the substance to back them up. True luxury brands allow craftsmanship and exclusivity to drive demand. Instead of generic advertisements, they focus on storytelling, behind-the-scenes content, and partnerships with respected voices in the watch industry. Ferdinand Berthoud and Greubel Forsey are both examples of brands that have built their reputations on innovation and horological excellence rather than artificial hype.
A watch startup that aspires to luxury status must understand that prestige cannot be bought—it must be earned. Success depends on a delicate interplay of authenticity, innovation, exclusivity, and storytelling. True craftsmanship, careful brand-building, and controlled distribution will always outperform shallow marketing tactics. If a startup attempts to charge ultra-luxury prices without delivering real luxury, it will fail. But if it proves its worth through meticulous artisanship, limited production, and a strong narrative, it can stand among the finest names in independent horology.
Author: Sergio Galanti