You won’t find full specs here. You will find intent, posture, subtext. These are horological classifieds for new releases from independents (this lot is from the 2025 GPHG nominations) — announcements, invitations, provocations — interpreted for the collector’s subconscious.
Communication 45
Andersen Genève
Geneva–La Chaux-de-Fonds. 45 pieces (15 per map). 38mm gold.
“Worldtimer made by two octogenarians who won’t use CNC. Cognac-fired BlueGold dial with century-old wave guilloché, continents inlaid in pure gold like a treasure map. Thirty-five years refining the same 0.9mm module Svend designed when Patek Philippe had stopped caring. Teardrop lugs hand-polished to mirrors. Knows what Cottier knew. Three maps, one legacy, fewer than 1,400 watches since 1980. Not for people in a hurry.”
MARK 1 Möbius
Fam Al Hut
42.2mm × 24.3mm. Lugless.
“Bi-axis tourbillon spinning at two speeds inside a capsule smaller than physics should allow. Chinese designer Lukas Young’s debut statement: radical minimalism wrapping microscopic mechanical cities. Concave steel case flows into integrated strap like it forgot where watch ends and body begins. Fifty hours, two axes, zero lugs. Wears like a 36mm, thinks like a particle accelerator.”
Project 21
MING
Los Angeles–Geneva. 10 pieces. Tantalum.
“Horological omakase for ten believers who paid before seeing the menu. Designer’s no-compromises fever dream wrapped around a 1925 Piguet caliber—1.75mm thin, century-old soul. Tantalum case machined in LA, dense as a threat, curved in directions physics resents. Two-layer dial with borosilicate strakes. Titanium bridge color-matched and skeletonized. 35mm but wears vindicated. No lume because sometimes you choose darkness.”
TRP2
Raúl Pagès
60 hours. 12.50mm balance wheel.
“Cerulean blue with white agate center, five layers pretending to be one. Breguet-curved hands polished until they hurt, counterweights matte-finished by someone with infinite patience. Signature engraved so faintly you will question if it is there. Counterweighted lever because most watchmakers stopped caring decades ago. Marine chronometer soul trapped in dress watch body. Looks simple, hides everything.”
S3 Deadbeat Seconds - Power Reserve
Garrick
Norfolk, England. Made to order. 42mm.
“Mechanical movement that ticks like quartz because British perversity demanded countless engineering hours to betray its own nature. Largest free-sprung balance wheel you have ever seen sitting at six like an exposed heart. Stuart Smith hand-finishes each one, three weeks of regulation per watch to beat COSC by half. German silver chapter ring, observatory hands if you ask. Steel or gold, frosted or mirror, your neuroses welcomed. Refuses mass production on principle.”
Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer
NOMOS Glashütte
Glashütte, Germany. Under 10mm.
“German sport watch that speaks 24 time zones in a case slimmer than most three-handers. Push at two, jump an hour, city ring follows obediently. Subdial shows home in day-night red and blue while you are chasing deadlines across meridians. Rhodium sunburst face, blue lume, screw-down crown with red stem that tattles when you forgot to close it. Bauhaus discipline meets airport anxiety. Swims to 100 meters between flights.”
Derek Pratt Remontoir d’Egalité
Luca Soprana
Limited series. 40 hours.
“Ghost collaboration across death. English master who refined the co-axial with Daniels left drawings in 2009, never made the wristwatch. Italian watchmaker finished it in 2024, refused to sign his own name on the dial. Reuleaux triangle cam rewinds every second—constant force through geometry, small seconds jumps like a heartbeat hiccup. Suspended barrels, Maltese cross limiter, amplitude variance under three degrees. Spiritual heir who erased himself to honor the inventor. ‘Derek Pratt Invenit’ says the plaque. Soprana says nothing.”
No. 5 Kai
Otsuka Lotec / Jiro Katayama
Japan. Miyota + in-house satellite module.
“Japanese independent solves jacket-cuff problem by pushing hours and minutes to the right. Satellite hour disk with double reduction gear against backlash. Ball bearing roller at eight, seconds at five keep moving. Components cast shadows through sapphire for depth. Mechanism borrowed from night clocks, repurposed for sleeve warfare.”
Jubilee Sensu EOL ‘Shiraai’
Kurono Tokyo / Hajime Asaoka
Tokyo. End-of-life cal.9133. Limited.
“White indigo baby blue over silver guilloché—Prussian pigment pretending to be Aizome dye, ‘Hokusai Blue’ if you are poetic. Asaoka’s 60th jubilee: onyx cabochon crown debut, discontinued cal.9133 with calendar amputated. Chrysanthemum radiates, fan guilloché guards power. End-of-life movement, finite supply. Last version vanished in minutes. Won’t happen twice.”
Editorial Note
The Classifieds interprets new releases through a lens of cultural and creative commentary. Descriptions are intentionally stylised, satirical, and subjective — written to reveal character, not to assert fact. All opinions are those of the author and do not represent any brand or manufacturer.
About the Author
Sergio Galanti is an independent brand strategist and writer in the luxury watch industry. He is the editor of WatchDossier, a publication devoted to the cultural and philosophical undercurrents of modern horology.
No compensation or brand affiliation influenced this essay. Opinions are the author’s own.
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