The remarkable story of how Swiss watchmaking discovered that in an age of material abundance, the ultimate luxury is not what things are made of—but the stories we tell about why those materials matter.
Prelude: Editor's Note
On the matter of time and matter
There is a moment, just before midnight, when the watchmaker's bench falls silent. The last escapement has been regulated, the final case polished to mirror brightness. In that pause, surrounded by tools unchanged since the Renaissance and materials born in particle accelerators—or more recently, reclaimed from ocean waste—we confront the central paradox of our craft: we have spent centuries learning to capture time in increasingly sophisticated vessels, yet time remains as elusive as ever.
This Special Edition chronicles four decades during which the Swiss watch industry transformed from custodian of precious metals into alchemist of meaning itself, turning industrial waste into luxury totems, space debris into status symbols, and most remarkably, environmental responsibility into the ultimate form of exclusivity.
The materials documented in these pages share a common thread: they are all solutions to problems that did not exist until we created them. Anti-magnetic movements for a world we have filled with magnetic fields. Aerospace alloys for wrists that will never leave the atmosphere. Ocean plastic components for consumers seeking absolution through consumption. Each innovation responds to the peculiar anxieties of contemporary existence while claiming kinship with timekeeping traditions that predate the industrial revolution.
What emerges is a portrait of an industry that has discovered how to transform any narrative—technological, environmental, or philosophical—into objects of desire. The journey from gold's ancient authority through silicon's molecular precision to recycled ocean plastic's moral imperative reveals an industry that has mastered the ultimate luxury skill: making meaning itself precious.
The most recent chapter in this story proves the most sophisticated. Where exotic materials once created exclusivity through atomic novelty, sustainability has created exclusivity through conscience. The transformation of environmental responsibility from luxury's greatest threat into its newest frontier represents the industry's most elegant solution to the perpetual challenge of manufactured scarcity in an age of abundance.
Read, then, not as a consumer but as an anthropologist examining one small corner of contemporary culture that has learned to make virtue valuable, responsibility rare, and conscience costly. The watches tick on, marking hours that pass regardless of whether their cases contain meteorite fragments or ocean plastic—but the stories we tell about those materials reveal everything about our species' genius for transforming matter into meaning.
--- The Editor
Zurich, Summer 2025