The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Flyback Grand Guichet: A Yesterday’s Classic
How Maurice Lacroix’s Masterpiece Flyback Grand Guichet defied trends, blended tradition with innovation, and secured its place as a modern classic in Swiss watchmaking.
In the world of Swiss watchmaking, few brands have achieved the delicate balance between accessibility, craftsmanship, and innovation quite like Maurice Lacroix. Born not from centuries-old lineage, but from an audacious vision to merge Swiss precision with modern elegance, Maurice Lacroix has carved its own path in haute horlogerie.
Founded in 1975, the brand traces its origins to Desco de Schulthess, a Swiss company with roots dating back to 1889. Originally a silk trading enterprise, Desco transitioned into luxury goods distribution and, by the 1960s, moved into watch production. With the acquisition of an assembly workshop in Saignelégier, Maurice Lacroix’s foundations in watchmaking were set.
Unlike brands boasting royal commissions or centuries-old workshops, Maurice Lacroix built its reputation through innovation, mechanical ingenuity, and dedication to quality. By the late 1980s, it had begun to distinguish itself, investing in in-house case manufacturing and refining its expertise in high-end mechanical movements.
But the true turning point for Maurice Lacroix came in 1992, when it introduced the Masterpiece collection—a series of mechanical timepieces that would forever change the brand’s identity.
As the 1980s gave way to the 1990s, the watch industry was still recovering from the Quartz Crisis, which had threatened the very existence of traditional Swiss mechanical watchmaking. At this pivotal moment, Maurice Lacroix defied trends, choosing to double down on mechanical watches. It was a daring move, but one that paid off handsomely.
The Masterpiece Collection, introduced in 1992, became Maurice Lacroix’s flagship line, dedicated to traditional Swiss craftsmanship, mechanical complications, and exquisite finishing. Unlike many mid-tier brands of the time, Maurice Lacroix sought out rare and discontinued mechanical movements, restoring and refining them to create unique timepieces. This approach gave the Masterpiece Collection a distinct identity, one that was rooted in both history and innovation.
At the time, Swiss watchmaking was in a period of transition. Established maisons such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet were refining their flagship models, emphasizing high complications and ultra-luxury finishing. Meanwhile, newer players like Franck Muller were emerging, blending artistic flair with complex movements. Many brands sought to reclaim their heritage, reissuing vintage-inspired designs that connected them to their storied pasts.
Maurice Lacroix, in contrast, sought to bridge the gap between accessibility and horological prestige, making complications available to a wider audience while maintaining the high-quality finishing expected of a Swiss brand. Among the more beautiful models in this collection was the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Flyback Grand Guichet, a refined and technically impressive chronograph that pays homage to the legendary navigation instruments of the 1930s while incorporating modern Swiss watchmaking excellence. Housed in a stainless steel or steel and gold case, it features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal on both the front and back, providing a clear view of its meticulously hand-decorated movement.
At the heart of the timepiece is an automatic movement (ML05) based on the ETA 2892-A2 caliber, enhanced with a flyback chronograph module. The flyback function allows for instantaneous resetting and restarting of the chronograph with a single push, making it a favorite among enthusiasts who appreciate functional precision and ease of use. The watch also boasts 30-minute and 12-hour counters, a Grand Guichet large date display, and small seconds, offering a blend of utility and visual harmony.
Designed for both collectors and brand’s enthusiasts, the Masterpiece Flyback Grand Guichet stands out for its balance of mechanical complexity and readability. With a water resistance of 50 meters, it maintains practicality while delivering the elegance expected from a timepiece within the Masterpiece Collection. Aficionados will appreciate the attention to detail, hand-finished movement, and the well-balanced integration of its complications, making it a true representation of Maurice Lacroix’s dedication to high-end Swiss watchmaking.
At the time of its release (early 2000s), watch design was undergoing a shift. The 1980s had been defined by angular case designs, integrated bracelets, and bold gold tones, heavily influenced by models such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972) and the Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976). However, by the early 1990s, the pendulum was swinging back toward smaller case sizes, refined dials, and traditional complications. The Flyback Grand Guichet, with its clean lines and classical proportions, was a direct response to this evolving taste—offering a timeless alternative to the more avant-garde and oversized designs that dominated the previous decade.
Socio-economically, the 1990s marked a resurgence in luxury goods, as global economies stabilized after the financial upheavals of the late 1980s. The growing appetite for mechanical watches among collectors meant that brands had to balance both innovation and heritage—two qualities the Flyback Grand Guichet embodied effortlessly.
Unlike many contemporary watches that sought to overcomplicate with excessive complications, the Flyback Grand Guichet remained elegant, functional, and highly legible. It was a watch designed not just to impress, but to be worn daily—offering a seamless blend of tradition and utility.
The success of the Masterpiece Flyback Grand Guichet helped solidify the Masterpiece Collection as the cornerstone of Maurice Lacroix’s brand identity. The collection continued to evolve, introducing complications such as retrograde calendars, moon phases, power reserves, and skeletonized movements, always with an eye toward blending heritage and modernity.
Over the years, Maurice Lacroix has continued to push boundaries, from the Square Wheel (2010) to the Mysterious Seconds (2013), always seeking new ways to express time while respecting the brand’s mechanical roots.
Today, the Flyback Grand Guichet remains a sought-after model among collectors and enthusiasts, symbolizing a moment when Maurice Lacroix dared to be different. It is a testament to the brand’s commitment to precision, craftsmanship, and timeless design—a watch that, even decades later, continues to inspire admiration and appreciation in the world of haute horlogerie.
Auction results for the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Flyback Grand Guichet are limited. The limited auction appearances of the Masterpiece Grand Guichet suggest that while it is a distinguished model within Maurice Lacroix's lineup, it may not be a frequent feature in major auctions. Collectors interested in this timepiece might consider exploring specialized watch marketplaces or consulting with dealers who focus on Maurice Lacroix watches to obtain more specific information on availability and pricing.
Author: Sergio Galanti