Imagine holding a piece of history in your hands—a watch that not only tells time but also captures the essence of the roaring 1920s, with its sharp geometric lines and unmatched craftsmanship. The Patek Philippe 'Carré' isn't just a timepiece; it's a window into the Art Deco era, where luxury and design converged to create something truly extraordinary.
The "Carré" watch features a distinctive square case, which was relatively rare at the time, setting it apart from the more common round cases of the era. Round cases were a legacy of the market and cultural dominance of the pocket watch till the turn of the 20th century. The sharp, clean lines of the square case exemplify the geometric precision and aesthetic influences of the Art Deco movement.
Patek Philippe "Carré", 1920s
Source: Monaco Legend Auctions
The case was typically made from precious metals, such as 18k yellow gold, white gold, or platinum, reflecting the luxurious standards of Patek Philippe and Art Deco. The metal was polished to a mirror finish, enhancing the watch's refined appearance.
The case size is modest by today's standards, reflecting the smaller, more discreet watches favored in the early 20th century. The size likely ranges from 25mm to 30mm, perfectly proportioned for the understated elegance of the period.
The dial is minimalist yet sophisticated, often featuring a silvered or cream-colored background. The use of Breguet numerals or simple Arabic numerals, combined with elegant blued steel or gold hands, adds to the watch's beauty. The logo signature, "Patek, Philippe & Co." under the 12-hour marker, is typical of the period; it underscores the brand's emphasis on elegance and restraint. The dial may include small minute markers around the outer edge, and some models might feature a sub-dial for seconds, positioned at the 6 o'clock mark.
The subdial seconds, often placed at 6 o'clock, was a more traditional design from pocket watches and earlier wristwatches. Achieving a smooth-running center seconds hand was technically challenging in the early 20th century because it required more complex movement mechanics. As watchmaking technology advanced, particularly with improved gear trains and balance wheels, center seconds became more common, especially in higher-end watches. As the 20th century progressed, both designs continued to coexist, but their uses became specialized. The center seconds became prevalent in sports watches, military watches, and any application where quick legibility was essential. Meanwhile, the subdial seconds remained popular in dress watches and those that sought to maintain a classical appearance.
The Patek Philippe "Carré" houses a manually wound mechanical movement, typical for watches of this period. The movement is likely of a high-quality caliber and finely finished with Geneva stripes or perlage, showcasing Patek Philippe's dedication to precision and craftsmanship. As with all Patek Philippe watches, the movement is designed for exceptional accuracy and reliability. The components are meticulously assembled, ensuring the watch runs smoothly and consistently.
The watch would have been initially paired with a leather strap, often in black or brown, complementing the gold or white gold case. The strap is likely fitted with a simple pin buckle made from the same precious metal as the case. The leather strap is understated, allowing the square case and elegant dial to take center stage.
The Patek Philippe "Carré" from the 1920s is a rare and highly sought-after piece in vintage horology. These timepieces have fetched significant sums at recent auctions, reflecting their rarity and desirability among collectors. For instance, a platinum Patek Philippe Carré from the 1920s, featuring a center seconds movement and a hinged case, sold for an impressive €754,000 at Monaco Legend Auctions in October 2023. This particular watch was highlighted for its well-preserved condition, charismatic design, and historical significance.
Patek Philippe watches from the early 20th century, especially those with unique designs like the "Carré," are often listed and sold at prestigious auctions like Christie's and Phillips. These auctions frequently see high bidding activity due to the watches' historical value, exceptional craftsmanship, and limited production numbers. The value of these watches is often enhanced by their provenance and the condition in which they have been maintained.