Time Zones, Depths, Legacy
DOXA returns to the GMT arena with the SUB 250T—an ocean-born tool watch reimagined for modern travelers, blending heritage design with real-world utility.
In 1967, a bright flash of orange pierced the ocean’s depths. It was the dial of the DOXA SUB—a revolutionary tool watch engineered not for luxury but for survival. Designed for professional divers and the general public alike, it introduced practical innovations that became industry standards: a unidirectional bezel to track dive times, a cushion-shaped case for ergonomic wear, and that unmistakable orange dial for underwater legibility. Nearly six decades later, DOXA resurfaces with the SUB 250T GMT, a new chapter in the brand’s long journey—a watch that keeps time not just under the sea, but across continents and time zones.
Founded in 1889 in the Swiss watchmaking hub of Le Locle, DOXA carved out a different path from the outset. It didn’t chase prestige or ornament. Instead, the brand aligned itself with function, creating robust mechanical timepieces accessible to professionals and enthusiasts alike. That pragmatic spirit reached its peak in the late 1960s when DOXA began producing dive watches that put safety and usability above all else. The orange dial wasn’t just bold—it saved lives. And over time, the SUB line became a reference point, not only for divers but for collectors who appreciated tools built with integrity.
That same integrity defines the brand’s modern presence. DOXA continues to evolve within a tightly held identity: rugged precision, democratic pricing, and a commitment to real-world performance. Its signature use of color, technical case shapes, and professional-grade mechanics remain constant. Whether one chooses a DOXA for its ocean pedigree or its day-to-day wearability, the experience is rooted in utility. The new SUB 250T GMT doesn't veer from this blueprint—it sharpens it.
At the center of this evolution lies the enduring vision of founder Georges Ducommun. A self-taught watchmaker, Ducommun sought to build mechanical watches that were both precise and attainable. His ethos was not exclIusivity, but inclusion—his creations were made to serve. Today, that spirit lives on in the SUB 250T GMT, which speaks to a generation of global wearers not just through style, but through purpose.
Over the decades, DOXA has developed an unmistakable design language. From the domed sapphire crystals to the patented no-decompression dive bezels, the brand forged a visual and technical identity tied directly to functionality. Iconic models like the SUB 300 and SUB 750T GMT defined DOXA's aesthetic—bold, purposeful, and always rooted in the needs of professionals. The return of the GMT complication, dormant since 2006, marks a long-anticipated revival that honors those values while adapting to the rhythms of modern life.
The SUB 250T GMT builds on its predecessors with a compact 40mm case that balances presence and wearability, appealing to a new era of users. Available in eight vibrant colorways—ranging from the unmistakable Professional orange to the sophisticated sunburst green of the Sea Emerald—it also debuts a gradient-dial Sharkhunter edition, the first of its kind from DOXA. This quiet nod to the brand’s early monochrome models adds a nostalgic depth to an otherwise forward-facing release. The dial layout is intuitive and clean: a date window at 3 o’clock, luminescent painted indexes, and a skeletonized GMT hand with DOXA’s distinct design language.
More than an aesthetic refresh, the watch is built for the demands of modern travel and adventure. Its GMT complication is no mere decoration. It provides real utility—allowing users to track a second time zone with ease. Whether navigating business in Tokyo while based in Paris, or crossing hemispheres with a backpack, the SUB 250T GMT is a capable and legible companion. Its Swiss automatic movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a 50-hour power reserve—offering reliability across time zones and climates.
Durability remains central to the package. The case is made of 316L stainless steel, known for its resistance to corrosion in marine environments. The sapphire crystal is treated with anti-reflective coating to maintain clarity in bright sunlight or deep water. With a water resistance of 250 meters, the SUB 250T GMT stays faithful to its diving lineage. Strap options include a color-matched FKM rubber strap engineered for resilience and comfort, and DOXA’s classic stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet, both featuring a folding clasp and diving suit extension.
Incorporating these materials and functions, the SUB 250T GMT manages to serve multiple roles. It’s a tool for divers, offering clear visibility thanks to its luminous dial and bezel configuration. It’s a traveler’s ally, offering timezone tracking at a glance. And with its compact case and playful palette, it easily becomes a daily companion—one that wears its technical strengths lightly but confidently.
This is not a watch designed in a vacuum. It bears the marks of DOXA’s history, from the orange Professional dial that once lit up the deep, to the new Sharkhunter gradient that nods to archival models. The 40mm case is both a concession to contemporary taste and a tribute to vintage proportions. The return of the GMT hand is not a gimmick, but a long-requested revival—evidence that DOXA listens to its community while steering its own course.
****